Above: A Chinese-style Thai meal at Tong Lee, Sukhumvit 20.
I have a soft spot for non-mall eateries. Ones that are still home-made and perhaps perpetuated by descendants of the founders. Despite the overwhelming numbers of chain restaurants in department stores, many parts of Bangkok (the Chinatown and Old Town in particular) still see a lot of independent good places to eat. Here are some of my go-to’s:
1. Tong Lee (ท่งหลี) – Soi Sukhumvit 20, BTS: promphong and then walk or taxi, daily: 09.00 – 19.30 (closed every third sat and sun of the month), T:02-2581983, 02-2594649
Once a predominantly residential area, Sukhumvit used to be home of many home-style ‘cook-shop’ restaurants. Cook-shop means Thai-Chinese cuisines; they serve Thai dishes that are prepared by Chinese cooks, hence slight adaptations of tastes, but still delicious.
Tong Lee is one of those. While many had withered and gone, this one is still going strong. Small place, tree-dense facade shophouse, and a small menu consisting of simple dishes that somehow for me do not really go well together or anything. But this is Sukhumvit, hence this place becomes a shining star for cosy non-mall choice.
I usually order their deep-fried crispy chicken, mee krob and tom yum as a meal. Huge portion, generous pricing. Parking can be impossible, so we walked there most of the time.
2. Ban Ta Reung (บ้านตาเรือง) – Soi ratchadapisek 3 yaek 14, Din Daeng (near fortune town, mrt: pra ram 9), wed-sun: 11.00 – 17.00, T: 063 551 6554
3. islamic home cuisine – Charoenkrung 36, bang rak, bangkok (near mandarin oriental hotel), mon-sat: 11.30 – 21.30, sun: 18.00 – 21.30, T: 089-129-2006
A long-standing establishment for decent Muslim staples, Islamic Home Cuisine is also located in the old Muslim community of Haroom Mosque on Charoenkrung Road – the stretch behind the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.
For me, this restaurant makes it easy to choose and perhaps understand a Muslim meal. Pictured menu with captions, friendly staff and air-conditioned dining room. I particularly love their biryani rice – soft, aromatic and not hard and dry. I usually order a fish version to go with a chicken or vegetable soup with an extra dish of chopped fresh chilli and lime. If I feel particularly more hungry, perhaps I would start my meal with a mango lassi and add on the table another order of roti and curry. All very nice.
Vegetarian choices and simple Thai dishes are also available. Their creamy milky desserts can also satisfy your cravings for something particularly indulgence.
4. chai roj (ไชยโรจน์) – Sri Ayutthaya road, BTS: Phya Thai, mon-sat (closed sundays): 11.00 – 20.00, T: 02 354 4090.
Another long-standing favourite ‘cook-shop’ style restaurant among doctors and their kids and sometimes government officers whose workplaces are nearby, Chai Roj is an old-school to the core. The menu, for me, is much more interesting and satisfying than Tong Lee. I would come here if I want a big, delicious and all home-cooked meal. But this one takes a long walk, though, which is ok for me sometimes.
Chai Roj is an expert on wok-frying. Everything in that category is particularly very delicious. Deep-fried fish fillet with Chinese celery comes crispy (with soft and tender interior) and light. Loads of chopped garlic, and everything. But then, their Thai staple of ‘Pad Kra Praw’ can be too bland for Thai tastes. This is a Chinese kitchen, after all, and I am not complaining. Writing this and I am craving for their deep-fried pomfret served with chilli and garlic. Also, do not miss their homemade coconut ice cream.
5. Kua Gai Aroi rim thang (คั่วไก่ เป็ด อร่อยริมทาง) – Soi Yukol 2, near plab pla chai intersection, daily: noon – 21.00, T: 086 500 6678
(Click the arrow on the right for more pictures.☝️)
Kua Gai is a type of stir-fried noodle that looks simple but quite hard to achieve. Usually, it is done with wide rice noodle, or Sen Yai, with the protein of choice, usually chicken and dry preserved squid and egg. At this small place that is located in an alley that is known for selling this particular item, they still do it individually in a small wok per order. And over a charcoal stove, too. The result is a very aromatic, crispy edges of noodle, with a chewy interior. Dry with good aromas. The chicken is deep-fried prior to the assembly, hence cooked through and also with nice crispy edges.
This is a semi-street food stall with more tables outside than inside their shop. Bring your own hand-held electric fan and enjoy. Parking is impossible, hence a good stop while you are enjoying your walk in the Chinatown area.
More of Our Bangkok Guides
5 Best Fishball Noodles in Bangkok
Top 10 Things to Buy in Bangkok (Shopping Guide)
5 Favourite Non-Mall, Old-School Bangkok Restaurants
5 Best Cheap Thai Restaurants in Bangkok
17 Places to Eat in Bangkok’s Chinatown (Yaowarat)
10 Places to Eat in Bangkok Old Town (Rattanakosin Island)
16 Places to Shop in Bangkok – A Bangkok Shopping Guide
8 Things to do in Bangkok Old Town (Rattanakosin Island)
Bangkok Top 10 Attractions
How to Get Around in Bangkok
Bangkok Long Weekend – An Essential Guide
Bangkok – A Foodie Paradise
Amazing suggestion for food lovers and tourists. Thanks for this wonderful list. I also want to recommend one from my last experience, you can also check out http://www.mythaicooking.com/ – one of the best Thai cooking classes in Bangkok. They offer Authentic Thai cooking classes. Their classes are perfect for families, couples and friends. You can join shared, private or vegetarian cooking classes.
Great post. Thanks for the sharing this informative article.